I want a deep green lush lawn that will elevate the look of my house! I’ve been in this situation many times and it has been more important to me when I’ve moved to a new house. I also want my kids to play in a smooth lawn that is aesthetically pleasing to me and functional for them. Soccer, badmington, picnics and kite flying among other things are carried out on my lawn. So, ankle injury is a thought for me and consequently, I try to keep my lawn shorter, and I carry out practices to make it level whilst being a zone for awesome stripes that make my neighbors jealous. He-He!!
If you are under a half-acre, a push mower would be great and cost efficient with some being self-propelled. If you have to mow more than a half-acre, then the task of mowing can become cumbersome and tedious which inevitably will lead to failure of your goal to have a nice lawn. A half-acre and up is personal choice between a lawn tractor, zero turn mower and a stand on area mower. Price range is about $100 and up, new.
Versatile but slower machine compared to a zero-turn mower. Can be used to bag clippings and leaves with additionally attachments. Turning radius is quite large which makes it awkward in some tight lawn spots. Mowing deck ranges up to about 32″ – 48″ and tractor can be used to haul, and tow implements like spikers, rollers, aerifiers etc. Lawn Tractors are middle priced and start about $2000 and up new.
Operationally versatile with a faster pace than a lawn tractor. Can turn on itself and is great for undulating lawns. Can either be side or rear deck discharge. Can’t have attachments like bags for clippings etc. Can save you a bunch of time mowing and tend to have more HP making it able to cut denser swards. Price range is from $3000 and up, new.
Try to get a soil test before any fertilizer applications. This could save you money and effort later down the road. Each grass variety is different but cool season grasses tend to need around 2 to 5 lbs. per 1000 sq ft annually and warm season grasses from about 5 to 10 lbs. annually. For cool season lawns like bluegrass, lawn fertilizer application would be spring, summer and fall and for warm season would be every other month, to keep a healthy growing lawn.
Organic fertilizers need to be applied when soil temps are warmer as they require microbial breakdown to convert fertilizer to available nutrients to the grass. Beginning and at the end of season a synthetic blend would be better suited as this isn’t a concern and nutrient availability is immediate after application. For warm season lawns it would be easier to be organic based as soil temps are higher.
Preemergent herbicide applications are necessary to start your lawn care program and should be your base. Trying to keep on top of developed weeds is a difficult task that can make a good lawn bad quick. Trying to kill newly developed weed seeds is by far an easier option that will help prevent future seed development and will allow you to focus on other aspects of your lawn. Fertilizer with preemergent on them furthers the time management efficiency. I like my lawn, but I always want to combine tasks if I can.
Be prepared for weeds popping up throughout the year despite a preemergent program. Selective herbicides should be applied to emerged weeds before they flower and throw seed. A contact selective herbicide in my opinion is better than a product applied through a water hose. Faster knockdown leads to satisfaction in my book!
In northern states you really only needed to worry about grubs and webworms. In the southern states you’ve got everything else! (Joking) Mole crickets, fire ants and webworms are a predominant problem. In both circumstances timing of season long insecticide control may be necessary, and application should happen when insects are in their juvenile state. First year you should control and scout for the second year. Then apply preventative control measures the following season.
This doesn’t need to be complicated, it takes some awareness of environmental conditions and checking of your weather apps. If you live with a sandy base soil like parts of Florida and coastal sites, then watering will be a frequent practice. In other situations, get a screwdriver and stab the soil, get a feel of what the soil is like when moist and when getting dry. Remember evapotranspiration can be up to 0.2″ of water per day, so don’t let your lawn get too dry before watering. Water in 15-to-30-minute intervals and try not to have standing water as this will result in runoff and wasted water. Aerification and wetting agents can help store more water in the soil and are a necessary practice for the avid lawn car DIYer.
Good luck and email or comment if you have questions.
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